Subj:  Remote antenna switches
Date:  Tue, May 23, 1995 4:57 PM CDT
From:  n4zr@netcom.com  (*** please note new address: n4zr@ix.netcom.com ***)
To: cq-contest@tgv.com

In response to my query about experience with remote antenna switches, I
received about 20 comments.  The most surprising thing about them is that
VERY few people had problems with their antenna switches, and all of them
were generally satisfied with the ones they had chosen.  To the extent
there were negatives, they had to do with deficiencies in design "seen
from afar."  Generally, where people were using a given unit, they
acknowledged the shortcomings but had successfully worked around them and
felt that the units worked well regardless.

The largest number were using the Ameritron RCS-8V.  They acknowledged the
relatively poor quality enclosures, but reported long trouble-free
service.  Several people were using the RCS-4, which does not require a
control cable - the clear low-cost winner overall. 

Next was DX Engineering -- high marks on both electrical and mechanical 
construction, but acknowledged to be a little more expensive than the 
Ameritrons.

A number of people praised Top Ten Devices, particularly for their 
flexibility, while noting the need for a weatherproof enclosure because 
the relay boxes are designed for indoor use.  They also got loud applause 
for their customer service.

Two liked the switches from Antenna Mart of Iowa.

And finally, a couple of different solutions -- one urged the use of 
something called a "globe" - a multi-position motorized coax switch, 
available surplus-- while two encouraged me to build my own.

So that's the story - I hope you find it useful.  

73, Pete                                       
N4ZR@netcom.com ((*** please note new address: n4zr@ix.netcom.com ***))

And from W3ZZ, August 1995: 

>IMO the best antenna switch is a multiposition motor driven surplus 
>switch usualy made by Transco, TRW or the like.  They often are called 
>"globes" because of their shape.  Usually a cylinder (containing the 
>motor) with the connectors (usually N's) at one end and a military type 
>connector to take power.  You need to make a 28v (or so) power supply 
>with a switch to apply voltage to the right port to make the motor step 
>but this is not difficult to do.  These switches should handle any 
>reasonable amateur power at HF, are essentially lossless (they work some 
>of them to several GHz) and very rugged.  I have left them outside in the 
>weather and that is o.k. but I would rather put them in some kind of 
>enclosure.  These switches are surplus and readily available at any flea 
>market almost always for less than $50 and sometimes half that.  They 
>have anywhere from 2 to 8 ports.

>If you don't have a 28v supply (at about 1-2 amps peak to start the 
>motor), you can get 23v from an Astron 13.8v supply by tapping off the 
>unregulated DC output at the filter before it goes into the regulator.  
>These relays will turn readily at less than 20v.

>This is an alternative to an expensive ham type remote switch.  Those are 
>fine but cost plenty of dough.

>Good luck es 73, Gene  W3ZZ